ASOG 2022 is A System of Grading for those who want to understand the bodies we are grading for, how bodies (even mythical averages) change as they move across the sizing spectrum, and how to apply numbers to get a desired fit. If all you want to do is run numbers without an understanding of the body, ease, and their relationship to the garment, this may not be what you are looking for.
What to Expect in ASOG 2022
This is where to get the most in-depth understanding of fit, to be challenged by increasingly complex grading issues, and to gain an understanding of how grading can be applied across a wide range of sizes (with care) without distortion.
ASOG 2022 is based on my knowledge of flat pattern, garment construction, sizing tables and grading changes, and a whole lot of hands-on experience! I began with flat pattern, moved to scrawled calculations, then to spread sheets thanks to my friend and colleague Jeane deCoster. Not only do spread sheets give you a structure for numbers, but they can be an invaluable aid in thinking through all the components of our work.
The largest benefit of my ASOG 2022 is as a way of organizing your work (A System!) so that you can work through all the issues that will come up as you impose shape, stitch pattern, and gauge to designs in multiple sizes. All things are not created equally in bodies and garments!
Structure of A System of Grading
Pre-Sessions (on-demand videos, no charge) All available July 11, 2022
ASOG Webinar. A basic overview. I answer some questions you are likely to have!
Spread Sheets for Designers & Knitters. This is for anyone wanting to get a better understanding of basic spread sheet maneuvers. You can use any spreadsheet app you like, but I use Excel. You will need to figure out any differences on your own. Open Office, Google Sheets, Numbers, etc.
Anatomy for Designers, Knitters, & Tech Editors. I have gone all the way in to the skeleton to gain a better understand what we are grading. Going to the skeleton allows us to create sizing for all bodies. Having a layperson’s understanding of anatomy from the skeleton outwards will broaden your overall grading and fit understanding, which will help you make grading decisions.
A System of Grading 2022 (on-demand videos, live lab, paid sessions)
Available beginning July 18
I do a live lab once a week. This is a great place to get a better grasp of the course materials by asking me questions IRL. You also get access to a Slack channel where you can ask questions as they come up.
Everything is done bottom up in this class, an artifact of my flat-pattern background. You can reverse things if you work the other way, but working bottom up allows us to ease into the most-difficult-to-grade areas.
This material requires at least 3 hours of work by students per lesson. It isn’t mandatory that the homework be done, but failure to do it will limit your ability to execute on the material.
Jill Wolcott (seconded by her students!)
Part I
The System (click arrow for more)
These sheets can be used again and again if you follow the same process every time. Processes make our “brain work” easier, leaving more space for other things! We begin with an in-the-round cowl to get things going.
Understanding Grading Basics & Who We Are Grading For
Session 1 (Monday)
Using Spreadsheets: Formulas & Connecting Sheets
Session 2 (Wednesday)
Setting Up A Template Grading Workbook: Sizing, Gauge, & the Outline Session 3 (Monday)
Adding Sheets: Ease Sheet, Basic Calculator,
Checking Your Work, Adding Breadcrumbs!
Session 4 (Wednesday)
Part II
Grading Non-Garment Projects (click arrow for more)
Move ahead with more non-garment things to establish our process, find sticky points, and get comfortable. Do not think that these will be easy! You will learn dividing evenly, changing stitch pattern and gauge, and adjusting to achieve the desired fit.
Grading a Hat With Basic Shaping Session 5 (Monday)
Shaped Hat with Stitch Pattern & Achieving Workable Numbers In A Hat Session 6 (Wednesday)
Decrease Shawl (beginning from a long cast on) Session 7 (Monday)
Increase Shawl and Adding GSRs Session 8 (Wednesday)
Part III
Grading Simple Garment Projects (click arrow for more)
A simple body always ends up with more complex needs as we transition from circumference measurements to flat upper body measurements! Bind off amounts, shaping for a curved armhole, getting to the shoulder width goal, and yes, doing the same for necklines!
Flat-knit Tank Top With No Shaping from Bottom to Armholes Session 9 (Monday)
Working Shaped Armholes & Necklines
Session 10 (Wednesday)
Trims for Armholes and Necklines Session 11 (Monday)
Part IV
Darts & Related Shaping (click arrow for more)
Darts offer options for shaping, but they don’t always have to be darts, and their work isn’t just for accommodating breasts. See some tricks of flat pattern work their magic! Learn to create a Bust Dart Calculator and more.
Adding Bust Darts Without Losing Your Mind Session 12 (Monday)
Vertical Darts & Other Shaping Methodologies Session 13 (Wednesday)
Part V
Grading Set-In Sleeve Garments (click arrow for more)
We start with some fine-tuning and understanding shaping better. We’ll hit bust darts, taper formulas, and set-in sleeves, plus using all the previously learned skills! This is where things really start to come together.
Cardigans: Ease, Fit Considerations, Button Bands, Dividing Front Pattern, Centering Pattern, Armholes and Associated Sleeve Caps
Session 14 (Monday)
Cardigan Spread Sheets Session 15 (Wednesday)
Set-in Sleeves from Bottom to Top Session 16 (Monday)
The Details: Bands, Closures, Checking Sleeve Caps and Armholes Session 17 (Wednesday)
Wrapping Up: Final Details, Reusing Sheets, Adding to Sheets Session 18 (Monday)
Registering for ASOG 2022
Registration will open on July 5.
You can pay a flat fee of $900 which includes all the sessions and labs, with an extra lab on July 16 (before first class to review the material in the free sessions).
There is a subscription option of 4 payments, paying for each section as you go (live labs are included in fees):
- Live Lab following Pre-Session
- $200 each for Part I & Part II
- $150 each for Part III & Part IV
- Final Part V is $250
If you are unable to take all the sessions now, you can always join the next ASOG offering which will begin in September 2022. You can audit (contact me to get access) future versions of this four-part series to catch up or to review.
Finally, you can purchase Parts a la carte. You may only audit the Parts you have paid for.
If you want to participate in the Live Lab following the Pre-Session, only, go here.
Questions?
Email me if you need to make alternative payment arrangements and I will attempt to accommodate you.
