ASOG 2023 is A System of Grading for those who want to understand the bodies we are grading for, how bodies (even mythical averages) change as they move across the sizing spectrum, and how to apply numbers to get a desired fit. If all you want to do is run numbers without an understanding of the body, ease, and their relationship to the garment, this may not be what you are looking for.
What to Expect in ASOG 2023
A System of Grading is where to get the most in-depth understanding of fit, to be challenged by increasingly complex grading issues, and to gain an understanding of how grading can be applied across a wide range of sizes (with care) without distortion.
ASOG 2023 is based on my knowledge of flat pattern, garment construction, sizing tables, and grading changes, and a whole lot professional life of hands-on experience! I began with flat pattern, moved to scrawled calculations, then to spread sheets thanks to my friend and colleague Jeane deCoster.
Not only do spread sheets give you a structure for the numbers, but they can be an invaluable aid in thinking through all the components of our work. A well-built spread sheet is a template that can be used in other projects.
The largest benefit of my ASOG 2023 is that is it a way of organizing your work (A System!) so that you can work through all the issues that will come up as you impose shape, stitch pattern, and gauge to designs in multiple sizes. All things are not created equally in bodies and garments!
- What to Expect in ASOG 2023
- Structure of A System of Grading
- Registration Deposit for ASOG 2023
Structure of A System of Grading
Pre-Sessions (on-demand videos, no charge) All available NOW!
ASOG Webinar. A basic overview. I answer some questions you are likely to have! There is a bonus of how to plan your schedule to get through the course.
Spread Sheets for Designers & Knitters. This is for anyone wanting to get a better understanding of basic spread sheet maneuvers. You can use any spreadsheet app you like, but I use Excel. You will need to figure out any differences on your own. Open Office, Google Sheets, Numbers, etc.
Anatomy for Designers, Knitters, & Tech Editors. I have gone all the way in to the skeleton to gain a better understand what we are grading. Going to the skeleton allows us to create sizing for all bodies. Having a layperson’s understanding of anatomy from the skeleton outwards will broaden your overall grading and fit understanding, which will help you make grading decisions. My goal in understanding the body is to be able to create fit for Any Body.
Do Today to Make Time Later. I recommend listening to this before starting ASOG 2023! I give lots of good tips for making the most of your time. I am not always good at following them myself, but I do get tons done in the time I have.
These are all free.
A System of Grading 2023 (on-demand videos, live lab, paid sessions)
Winter Sessions (one per week) begin January 3, 2023, and end May 8, 2023
Summer Sessions (two per week) begin May 30, 2023, and end August 14, 2023
Every Monday there is a live lab to discuss the videos and answer questions. This is a great place to get a better grasp of the course materials by asking me questions IRL. You also get access to a Slack channel where you can ask questions as they come up.
Videos and class materials for each session release on Tuesdays (and Thursdays for Summer).
Everything is done bottom up in this class, an artifact of my flat-pattern background. You can reverse things if you work the other way, but working bottom up allows us to ease into the most-difficult-to-grade areas.
This material requires, on average, at least 3 hours of work by students per lesson. It isn’t mandatory that the homework be done, but failure to do it will limit your ability to execute on the material.
Jill Wolcott (seconded by her students!)
Part I
The System (click arrow for more)
These sheets can be used again and again if you follow the same process every time. Processes make our “brain work” easier, leaving more space for other things! We begin with an in-the-round cowl to get things going.
Session 1 Understanding Grading Basics Plus Understanding Who We Are Grading For
Session 2 Using Spreadsheets: Formulas & Connecting Sheets
Session 3 Setting Up A Template Grading Workbook: Sizing, Gauge, & the Outline
Session 4 Adding Sheets: Ease Sheet, Basic Calculator,
Checking Your Work, Adding Breadcrumbs!
Part II
Grading Non-Garment Projects (click arrow for more)
Move ahead with more non-garment things to establish our process, find sticky points, and get comfortable. Do not think that these will be easy! You will learn dividing evenly, changing stitch pattern and gauge, and adjusting to achieve the desired fit.
Session 5 Grading a Hat With Basic Shaping
Session 6 Shaped Hat with Stitch Pattern & Achieving Workable Numbers In A Hat
Session 7 Decrease Shawl (beginning from a long cast on)
Session 8 Increase Shawl and Adding GSRs
Part III
Grading Simple Garment Projects (click arrow for more)
A simple body always ends up with more complex needs as we transition from circumference measurements to flat upper body measurements! Bind off amounts, shaping for a curved armhole, getting to the shoulder width goal, and yes, doing the same for necklines!
Session 9 Flat-knit Tank Top With No Shaping from Bottom to Armholes
Session 10 Flat-knit Tank Top Side Seam Tapers, Dividing the Body Unevenly (front and back)
Session 11 Adding Bust Darts Without Losing Your Mind
Session 12 Working Shaped Armholes & Necklines
Session 13 Trims for Armholes and Necklines (round and V-neck)
Part IV
Creating a Pullover (click arrow for more)
From the Tank Top we will create a pullover and add some design details that offer some other shaping options. Set-in Sleeves allow us to create better shape, but require a lot of thought and technique. These shapes and techniques underlay every garment shape.
Session 14 Pullovers From the Tank Top we will create a Pullover and add some design details that offer some other shaping options. A perfect opportunity to create a set-in sleeve
Session 15 Set-in Sleeves Using flat pattern to achieve the perfect sleeve cap height, upper arms that fit, and a sleeve that fits perfectly into the body
Session 16 Creating that perfect sleeve and other cool things
Part V
Cardigans, Vertical Darts, and The Details (click arrow for more)
We start with some fine-tuning and understanding shaping better. Vertical Darts, Armhole Darts, and Other Fitting Darts. Cardigans have a few added details. Things really start to come together.
Session 17 Vertical Darts & Other Shaping Methodologies
Session 18 Cardigans: Ease, Fit Considerations, Button Bands, Dividing Front Pattern, Centering Pattern, Armholes and Associated Sleeve Caps
Registration Deposit for ASOG 2023
Registration Deposit Now.
You can reserve your seat at $900 by making a Registration Deposit now. Can’t swing a flat $100, sign up to pay weekly.
Registration Deposit Weekly paymentsThere is a payment option, paying for each section as you go (live labs are included in fees):
- These are set up to go over 70 days, every 7 days, making payments of $10. If you still have money owing at the end of 2022, I will invoice you for the balance with your tuition if doing the Winter 2023. For Summer 2023, payment will continue until completed.
Financial aid is available to students after I have a minimum of six registrations. I depend on this income to help finance everything else I do around sizing so I can provide limited less-than-full tuition options, but I’ll try to help out.
Questions?
Email me if you have questions or need more information. I’m quite happy to respond, but can only do it via email.
