Today I’ll look at front chest adjustments and upper back adjustments. I’ve been writing about sizing adjustments that are generic, and we’ve gotten through the bottom to underarm (part 1), the armhole shaping (part 2), and so let’s take the next step!
Upper Back Adjustments: Above Armhole
Depending on the shaping of the back neckline, there may be little shaping needed after you achieve the shoulder width through armhole shaping. Don’t forget to do shoulder shaping (read here). Consider whether adding extra length in the back armhole to accommodate posture. A couple rows can make a real difference and keep the back of the garment from lookinging shorter than the front.
Note: If you lengthen the back armhole (and don’t shorten the front armhole), you will need to make an adjustment to the sleeve cap.
If the back neck is shaped and lower than a half-inch, there will be less need for length. If you are afraid of gaping armholes (mostly on a sleeveless top) or do not want to adjust the sleeve, the length can be added in the form of short rows. See graphic below.
Working Upper Back short rows. Do this above armhole shaping if possible.
Begin at right armhole.
- Work across to a short row point near left armhole.
- Work back to a short row point near right armhole.
- Repeat short row pair the number of times needed.
Note: Short rows can be worked to the furthest point and the turns picked up or closed on the final return row OR short rows can be worked to the nearest short row point, with the turns picked up or closed on each subsequent short row prior to the turning point.
Chest Adjustments: Front Above Armhole
The reverse of the need for extra length may be needed for stooped posture that shortens the front. Again, working a couple fewer rows may be all you need to do. Short rows could be used here. See graphic below.
This is where you can run into the dreaded “at the same time” instructions, where shaping at the neck and armhole are going simultaneously. It is also where the front is divided into right and left sides. Jill Wolcott Knits® patterns give full instructions for both right and left so there is no need to figure out reverse shaping. Here any reference to right side is “as worn”, not as knit. Let’s assume the neckline division is done on a RS row; the yarn will end up on the left side and first shaping will begin there.
Working Right and Left Front Chest short rows. Do this above armhole shaping if possible.
Begin at right armhole.
- Work across to a short row point near left armhole.
- Work back to a short row point near right armhole.
- Repeat short row pair the number of times needed.
Note: Short rows can be worked to the furthest point and the turns picked up or closed on the final return row OR short rows can be worked to the nearest short row point, with the turns picked up or closed on each subsequent short row prior to the turning point.
Chest Adjustments: Changes to Shaping, Rows for Shaping
Neckline depths and widths can be changed relatively easily, but will require reworking the bind off and decreases. If your row gauge differs significantly you should refigure the shaping to cover the same depth as on the original instructions.
Number of Rows Used in Shaping
Row Gauge = Inches of Shaping Depth
16 Rows
6 = 2.625″ of Shaping Depth
If the neckline is raised, the shaping depth may need to be compressed. A narrower neckline will require less shaping, a wider neckline more. These chest adjustments or upper back adjustments can be sorted out on graph paper without much difficulty.
Hi Jill,
Thank you for your post on back adjustments. While your directions for shaping the back for rounded shoulders was clear, I am left wondering what to do in my case.I’m kitting a sweater for my husband, who has very definite bow forward . The rounded shoulders actually begin at or just below his scapula. Where would I begin the short rows on a bottom-up sweater?
Further notes: There is about a three inch difference between the front and the back (ft, measures 17.5″ across and back measures 21″ across. All his sweaters rise up at the back about 3″.
Thank you for your consideration,
Suzanne Cook
Thanks for providing really good information. I would begin the short rows where the rounding begins. I would make the shortest GSR (leaving the shortest number of stitches worked at the center) about the distance between his scapula (like bust point to bust point on women), then work outwards. The first attempt might not be perfect, but if you do those GSR, then do shoulder GSR, I bet it will be a much better fit.
P.S. May I suggest his doing shoulder rolls? We start my Pilates lessons with them and they feel so good!
Thanks, Jill.
Shoulder rolls? I can’t get my husband to do anything. I had introduced him to used my foam roller but they didn’t hit it off.
S
Oh, I forgot to ask you. When doing the short rows for the back, would I space each row to accommodate the entire upper back? The distance is about 11.5″. So, if this were the case, I’d have what, 3″ increases over 11.5″ . Row count is 6.24 rows per inch. Stitch count is 4.25 stitches per inch.
I’m going to email you a drawing of what you are going to do, but let me explain. Is that 11.5 the distance between his scapula? You are going to short row over 24 rows (approximately). You need to short row on the stitches outside that 11.5 distance (48/49 stitches). So whatever is remaining outside that number, divide by two. Leave your selvedge stitch out of the short rows. Let’s say you have 20 stitches each side to short row over 24 rows. You will short row one side every rows. 20/12 = 1.666666 So closest to his mid-back you will short row in every stitch and further away, every other stitch. I used my calculator in excel to figure out that you need to do the 2 stitches 8 times and the 1 stitch 4 times. You can do it so you short row on second stitch on one row, then one stitch on the next row to soften it a bit.
Hi again,
No. The distance between the scapulae is 8″ The 11.5″ is the distance from the back shoulder to the bottom of the curve. So do your calculations still hold?
Suzanne:) Thank you for taking the time to guide me through this.
Yes I think so. Start the SR at 8.5” below the end of the armhole. but you have a greater distance, probably 7.5” to do the short rows. When I’m back at my computer I’ll do the calculations if I have the total number of stitches.