When using a breast binder there is still tissue, plus the binder, and it needs a new solution. Short rows can help cross this new terrain.
Measurements Reveal Problem, and Happy Solution
I had the absolute please of taking measurements of some non-standard bodies in the Oink Pigments Booth, including those of someone who uses a binder to bind their breasts.
As I took his other measurements I realized immediately that he needed extra length to span the front of his chest. The binder created an essentially smooth slope, rather than a protrusion of a breast.
I took the measurements I needed, then I told him how to solve his new front fit issue. He was completely familiar with bust darts from his previously curvy figure, and understood that by diffusing a bust dart he can accommodate his new chest. Add spaced, shallow, front-spanning short rows that will add in the additional five inches of his front length, leaving his back at the appropriate length. Worked from the armhole to the waist, or waist to armhole, spaced appropriately to accommodate the difference in length measurement and at row gauge, the length needed can be subtly added.
No more too short in the front or riding up at the front neck or armhole. Improved fit with an easy, familiar modification, done differently.
Makers Have a Super Power
As makers we have a super power. We can control the inputs and the outputs to make things that will reveal our best self, both internally and externally. It is a bit of a life-goal for me to help people learn how to find the inputs that will create their best output. It is a process, but I invite you to join me in learning more about what measurements can do to help us. They are merely data points that help us make the best possible modifications that suit who we are.
What We Can Accomplish
This isn’t a simple thing, but the affirmation and beauty it can create is worth some extra effort. I am fully aware of how loaded measurements are, how much most of us have some level of body shame, and our culture has not been at all supportive. I want to help.
Larger, smaller, non-standard (as we all are), whatever body you have, let’s support and celebrate our true selves by taking the time to understand ourselves and others. I have learned so much by being a non-judgmental (that is a journey in itself) observer of all the bodies and body differences.
Knowing Each Other
I also want to sincerely thank everyone who shared their stories with me at h+h americas. I am so happy that what I know can help you be you. Whether it is you, or a family member, we all need to be there for each other. Look up breast binder (here’s a link I like) and learn more.
Behind the Scenes
July’s Behind the Curtain chat will be a recap of h+h americas (trade show) and a look at bust darts. Now we know we have to consider alternatives to them. Sign up and register for the live webinar here (you can join the conversation as it is interactive) where knitters and designers can share.
Here’s a handy page to find things quickly on my website: I use it all the time!