I-cord: Techniques & Tips

I-cord is one of the most-searched things on my website. It seems easy enough, but if you’ve never done it, or want to create variations, here’s some thoughts. I was double-checking my facts before I started this post (always an excellent practice!) and found this wonderful post that you should read. The name was what I was checking. Just so you know.

I-cord Structure

I usually do a long-tail cast on because it is okay if it pulls in at the bottom. I think e-wrap cast ons are too hard to knit into–but would be nice too.

Basic I-cord: Using appropriately sized needles (either dpns or circulars–see below Straight Needle I-cord), cast on the number of stitches desired. *Without turning your right needle over, put it into your left hand, and push the stitches to the right end of the needle. Now, pull the working yarn across the back of the cast on stitches and knit the number of stitches. Repeat from *.

I-cord is a slip stitch technique. Using double-ended needles means that we don’t ever have to work the wrong-side row or slip the stitches–they are effectively slipped when we slide the stitches to the other end of the needle.

That’s it. Keep working Basic I-cord until the desired length, then bind off in a manner appropriate to the number of stitches (suggestions below).

Straight Needle I-cord: Using appropriately sized straight needles, cast on the number of stitches desired. *Without turning your right needle over, slip the cast on stitches back to the left needle going into each stitch from the left (so as not to twist the stitch). Now, pull the working yarn across the back of the cast on stitches and knit the number of stitches. Repeat from *.

That’s it. Keep working Straight Needle I-cord until the desired length, then bind off in a manner appropriate to the number of stitches (suggestions below).

I-cord Stitch Patterns

Sometimes I want my I-cord to match my knitted fabric. We are limited by the number of stitches in the I-cord, but can create things like garter stitch, seed stitch, small ribs, and it could certainly be worked as reverse stockinette. Remember, we’re basically omitting the wrong side rows and working as if it were being done in-the-round. Let’s look at the options:

I-cord Reverse Stockinette: Work I-cord, but wherever it says knit, purl!

I-cord Garter Stitch: Work I-cord, *knit a row. Bring the yarn behind the needle, then to the front to purl the next row. Repeat from *. Sample shown is done as 6-stitch I-cord.

I-cord Seed Stitch (odd number of stitches): Work I-cord as follows: Row 1: (K1, p1) x times, k1. Row 2: (P1, k1) x times, p1. Repeat Rows 1 and 2. Sample shown is done as 5-stitch I-cord.

I-cord Seed Stitch (even number of stitches): Work I-cord as follows: Row 1: (K1, p1) x times. Row 2: (P1, k1) x times. Repeat Rows 1 and 2. 

I-cord 1×1 Rib (even number of stitches): Work I-cord as follows: Row 1: (K1, p1) x times. Repeat Row 1. Sample shown is done as 4-stitch I-cord.

I-cord Rib (odd number of stitches): Work I-cord as follows: Row 1: (K1, p1) x times, k1. Repeat Row 1. Sample shown is done as 5-stitch I-cord.

Those should give you an idea of what you can do in terms of stitch pattern. With larger number of stitches, the options are a little greater.

I-cord Stitch Numbers

I-cord can be done with 2 or more stitches. After about 7 stitches it isn’t really cord anymore and is really just knitting in-the-round. The size of the cord is going to depend on the yarn used too.  Wet or steam block it to stabilize the structure.

 2-stitch I-cord is almost like a crochet chain. It is perfect for a small detail or to use for making lingerie straps. To bind off:  k2tog and pull yarn through the last stitch.

3-stitch I-cord is the typical size made. It makes a nice round cord. To bind off: SK2P and pull yarn through the last stitch.

4-stitch I-cord makes a cord that begins to be flat. To bind off: Do a central decrease–SK2P-return stitch to left needle, pass unworked stitch over, and pull yarn through the last stitch.

5-stitch I-cord makes a flat I-cord. To bind off Row 1: K1, SK2P, k1. 3 sts.  To bind off Row 2:  SK2P and pull yarn through the last stitch.

6-stitch I-cord makes a flat I-cord. To bind off Row 1: K1, SK2P, k2tog. 3 sts.  To bind off Row 2:  SK2P and pull yarn through the last stitch.

7-stitch I-cord makes a flat I-cord. To bind off Row 1: K1, SSK, k2tog, SSK. 4 sts.  To bind off Row 2: Do a central decrease–SK2P-return stitch to left needle, pass unworked stitch over, and pull yarn through the last stitch.

When working larger numbers, the back stitches (the first and last stitches can be loopy due to the expanse of stitches the yarn across the back needs to span.

There are wonderful things on Pinterest.  This one caught my eye.

I-cord is a great place to hind ends because they can be threaded into the hollow core. So changing color like in the Cup Cosy will require a lot of working in ends, but you have a nice place to put the ends.

My swatches were made using Alpine 3-ply DK from Mountain Meadow Wool, 100% Mountain Meadow Targee, 3.5 oz/260 yds. I worked everything on size 4(3.5mm) dpns from Brittany. This went on much longer than I expected, but I think it has lots of good information.  Let me know what you think.