Overview of A System of Grading (ASOG)
A System of Grading (ASOG) is based on grading for flat pattern, but is done without actually making a pattern. Grading is creating multiple sizes from a single sample size. By consistently applying “growth” or “shrinkage” amounts at various places in the piece or the garment, it allows pieces to change uniformly and in the same amount at intersecting places. How these amounts are applied, and the resulting pattern shapes are based on brand decisions. Doing the same thing consistently on all pieces within a brand creates brand consistency so that the customer knows the fit of that brand.
A System of Grading is the foundation for all grading, based on rules, with real world application. Grading is all about applying a strict set of numbers to each size to accomplish a consistent product. After grading is established, the application of ease, stitch pattern, and gauge complete the process.
Grading itself is pretty straight-forward in theory. Grading numbers are based on standards and the set of numbers that you will develop and use for your work. Once the nuances are understood, it is up to you to create the set of numbers for your target market (or your customer’s target market) and standards you will apply going forward.
I’ve updated and streamlined my original course, and I am offering A System of Grading 2020 as a 14-week course, plus the free Webinar. This is the pre-registration version of the ASOG Course Syllabus & Calendar.
This is where you can find understanding, begin mastery, and open up your knitwear world as a knitwear designer, pattern writer or tech editor. A System of Grading gives you a clear path to applying the correct numbers to create garments in additional sizes.
There are so many nuances to grading properly and understanding the application of the numbers and at times it will threaten to break your brain! Grading is almost always the thing that is the most difficult to master about designing. If you are a tech editor, A System of Grading can help you do more than just check the numbers given to you. Fully understanding the process will make you an invaluable partner to designers, editors, and companies who may need your eye for numbers to fully sort out their patterns.
About now you might be wondering why I think I can teach A System of Grading. I have put up a brief narrative on my education and teaching background. Want more details? Here’s my CV. I began teaching in 2000. I love teaching, and you can see here what my motivations are.
My journey began when I learned to sew at age 8 or 9, but maybe even before that when I drew princesses! I have been fascinated by fit as part of design since I was in high school.
Why A System of Grading?
By using this process you can do the numbers early in the design process to see where hurdles lay. I believe this process can help you write better patterns, but at a minimum it will work to create brand consistency in fit; more likely, as you better understand the application of ease to an established size range, your ability understand garments will expand.
A System of Grading is not faster, but it is better! I will be there to guide you and explain things which makes learning easier.
You need to be familiar with building a garment in some manner. This is not a “how do I make a garment” class; you should be able to at least write notes that lead you through a knit garment. A basic knowledge of garment shapes is useful, but I do address that that throughout the course.
I use Excel or Numbers, and you can use any spreadsheet you like—you can even do it manually. You will get familiar with the basics of using a spreadsheet to build your system. We will write the bones of the shaping instructions so that we can create or check a pattern. Class material and handouts, as well as homework, are based on my garment shapes and information, but we’ll be talking about your work as well.
How Do I Teach This Online?
Each Session of A System of Grading are given using GoToMeeting. You log in via your computer, tablet, or phone. I am on my Desktop or Laptop and you can see my screen and my face. We can all talk and hear each other. In each session I will use a series of handouts to walk you through the class content. The handouts are all downloadable documents or files, and you will have an outline for each Session.
I record each class and make that available to you later in the day as well. I can show you what is on my screen, or let you show me what is on yours. When demonstrating using a spreadsheet, you will see mine, have your own sample, and be able to print out a document to write on.
I have successfully taught Using Illustrator and a concise look at Plus Size Grading in this manner.
Classes will be a combination of lecture, demonstration, question and answer or group discussion. Questions are welcome and answers will be provided! I will have a Slack Channel available to use to ask me questions between class sessions. It will be one method of getting documents to you.
Each class will have some homework to practice that week’s material. Homework will be reviewed by me as soon as possible and feedback given via Slack. I also use Dropbox. You will get instructions for everything when you register!
A System of Grading, Certification
Do you want to have proof that you have received extensive training in knitwear grading? I can do that! I am not an educational institution, but I will offer a certificate of completion based upon review of your homework and other work done during the course; a final presentation and review of your aggregated materials is part of receiving an ASOG Certificate of Completion.
Everything you learn is about developing your own confidence and becoming
who you want to be as a designer, pattern writer, or tech editor.