Moderately easy difficulty & Outside-in/In-the-round knitting
Point Roberts is a unique place in a part of the world I’m pretty familiar with, but I had no idea it existed. When I go out searching for the name for a design, I learn new and interesting things. That’s the way I like my knitting too. Doesn’t have to be earthshaking, but I like to have some new little thing to look forward to learning or trying out.
Point Roberts Scarf
Point Roberts takes you from the outer edges to the center of the scarf. I like starting with my maximum number of stitches and working down to my final number because it helps keep me interested. Instead of stitches being added on, I am piling on inches, but working fewer and fewer stitches each round! This makes me feel that progress is happening even after I have mostly conquered the pattern and shaping. This scarf uses two stitch patterns, so just when you are getting bored with one, it changes, then changes again as you near the end. Color changes add another dash of interest. The finale, a flat 3-ndl bind off was what I most looked forward to. Oh, and whether I would have enough yarn–that always keeps you motivated, to finish before the yarn is gone!
When I knit the sample I set mini goals for myself because I needed to have this done on a schedule and that is always the best way for me to stay focused. My goals went from “I’ll knit one pair of rounds” to “I’ll do four decrease rounds tonight” as the rounds got smaller.
Point Roberts Page 2 Info
- S (M) (L)
- 16 (20) (24)”
Gauge and Needles:
- 4.5 sts/in and 9 rnds/in = 22 sts/4″ and 36 rnds/4″ in Moss Stitch
- 4.5 sts/in and 10.5 rnds/in = 22 sts/4″ and 42 rnds/4″ in Diagonal Rib
- Size 3(3.25mm) circular ndls or size to get gauge in lengths to accommodate diminishing numbers of stitches; dpns in gauge size for working center of scarf
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Extra needles for flexible long-tail CO and 3-ndl BO
- 12 felt balls
- Crochet hook
Yarn & Sample
- 4-ply Fingering/Sock from Ancient Arts Yarns, 75% superwash merino, 25% silk, 100g/437 yds (400m)using 1 skein each of Main Color (MC) and Contrast Color (CC)
- Sheila is wearing the model size L in Make Mine Caramel (MC) and Beaujolais Nouveau (CC)
I’ve always had an affinity for scarves and try to think of different ways to tie them. Here it is folded diagonally with the open ends hanging in front and the folded ends brought all the way around the neck (in opposite directions) and one corner detail threaded through the other. The scarf is scrunched up at the base of the neck to show off the colors and fabric.
- Page 2 is where to find all the information you need to get started on Seattle. Don’t forget to check gauge and be sure your needle size will get the specified gauge using your needles, yarn, and style of knitting. I am a relaxed knitter and it is not uncommon for other knitters to need a different needle size. Getting the proper fabric is essential to any design ending up as presented.
- Sizes: Pick the size to match the amount of yarn you have. The sample is done in the large (24”) size and used all of the MC skein of 437 yards, plus a half of the second skein. Remember that how we each tension our yarn causes a slightly different user experience in terms of yarn usage. I think this would also be a good way to use up some smaller quantities in coordinating shades.
- Gauge: Any deviation from the specified gauge will impact size and yarn usage.
- Needles: Worked on an easy size 3(3.25) needle this creates a slightly open fabric, but isn’t lacy. I am a loose knitter and most knitters will need to use a size 4(3.5mm) or larger needle. The starting needle should be long enough for cast on stitches to easily fit. Move to shorter circulars and finally to dpns to work center of scarf.
- Supplies: Stitch markers help divide this piece so you are working in four quadrants and makes the stitch patterns easier to follow through the shaping.
- There will be a few ends to work in at the finish, so I always recommend a bent-tip needle.
- The cast on is crucial here because if it is too tight it will make the outer edge too small; if it is too loose those edges will be floppy (see notes on Flexible Long-tail cast on). I used the same size needles for the cast on, but you can always change the bottom needle to be either smaller or larger as needed.
- Felt balls: These are optional, but I think make this so much more. They are added on at the end and could be done in only two corners. Try them!
- Yarn: There is something about adding a little silk that sets a yarn apart from its more ordinary cousins. Color applied by a hand dyer is always most interesting to knit and although I used two highly contrasting solids, I think their names tell you why this yarn is special. Make Mine Caramel and Beaujolais Nouveau completely speak to a red wine drinker who will take a caramel over a chocolate any day! Check out all the wonderful Ancient Arts colors here.
- Notes: There are notes in the bottom left corner of every pattern we produce. Almost always identical, be sure to review them as they contain information on using the pattern—and the questions I answer most often are addressed there!
- Written instructions: Point Roberts written instructions begin on page 3 and go through page 8.
- Techniques, stitch patterns & charts, schematics: Techniques are on page 9, stitch patterns and chart begin on page 9 and go through page 15, and schematic are on page 16. Always check these out. Stitch charts often make the written instructions visually clearer. We have charted decreases as they appear in the written instructions.
- A schematic always clarifies. Although just a square, we show the decreases, stitch pattern changes, and the direction of knitting. We believe that every pattern deserves schematics.
- Photos: There are detail photos on the lower right corner of page 2. These show the fabric and corner details. There are additional photos on page 8 showing other views.
Embark On Point Roberts
Moss Stitch Border
There are notes here.
- Use two strands to work the flexible long tail cast on. This is the secret for never running out of tail when working any variation of the long-tail cast on. Grab the outside and inside of your yarn, and begin casting on. Cut the thumb yarn when finished (I always have my working yarn coming from the inside of the ball). There is an extra end to work in, but I have weighed this, and it is worth not running out of yarn when casting on large numbers.
- Just a reminder that you will have to change needles as you work toward the center of your scarf.
Cast on your massive number of stitches, placing markers to create your four quadrants of much fewer stitches. It may make sense to remove the bottom needle from the cast on after casting on each quarter, but if you can leave it in, it will definitely make the join without twisting easier. Once you get your stitches lined up, remove the bottom needle, place your marker, and begin.
Follow the instructions set out in tables for setting up the pattern, then begin shaping. Each decrease round will reduce your stitch count by a total of 8 stitches—or two stitches per quarter. Color changes are clearly called out; decrease rounds are spelled out, and final stitch counts given.
The patterns is again set out in a table for ease of following the shaping. Because the same stitch pattern rounds (24 rounds) are repeated three or four times to achieve shaping, rather than restating the pattern, there are columns within the table that indicate how many time to repeat the 8-stitch pattern for each time you work through the pattern rounds. Decreases continue and stitch counts are given for each repeat of the pattern rounds.
Moss Stitch Ending
The pattern rows are set out as for the Diagonal Rib shaping, again having columns for each repetition of the pattern rounds (8 rounds), giving stitch counts, and the round on which to end the final repetition, followed by the final decrease and bind off.
There are always ends to work in! Follow that with either steam or wet blocking. You decide if you prefer the relief of the stitch patterns to be flattened (opened up) or left as knit. There shouldn’t be much change in size, but remember to treat this as a superwash for drying.
Point Roberts Techniques & Abbreviations
These are on page 9. The flat 3-needle bind off technique used to finish the scarf is set out there and everything else can be found at JillWolcottKnits.com. The bottom of page 9 has a box containing a list of every abbreviation and technique used in the pattern. These too are found at JillWolcottKnits.com.
There are no tricky techniques on this piece: start with the Flexible long-tail cast on (don’t use the regular long-tail!) and the flat 3-needle bind off. Jill is very specific about techniques used to get her results.
Point Roberts Charts / Stitch Patterns
Point Roberts Stitch Patterns & Charts, pages 9 through 15
The stitch patterns are given in both written and chart form. This is a great reference and perfect for swatching! We present them in order of appearance in the pattern. Each stitch pattern chart has a key.
- Moss Stitch ITR, page 9
- Diagonal Rib ITR, page 9
- Beginning Moss Stitch Border, page 10
- Ending Moss Stitch Border, page 11
- Beginning Diagonal Rib Shaping for sizes S (M) (L), page 12
- Ending Diagonal Rib Shaping for size S, page 13
- Ending Diagonal Rib Shaping for sizes (M) (L), page 14
- Moss Stitch Ending, page 15
Point Roberts Schematic, page 16
The schematics gives you measurements for the final blocked Point Roberts piece. Even though this is a square, measurements for length and width are shown, as well as where the piece transitions from Moss Stitch, to Diagonal Rib, and back to Moss Stitch. Schematics also provide a visual of what your piece will look like—always useful.
I hope this helps you see how we have charted a course to take you carefully through the process of creating Point Roberts. Shaping charts can visually aid working through shaping even if you follow the written instructions.